A walk through Morrab Gardens

Morrab Gardens is in the heart of Penzance, a short walk from the centre of town through narrow streets that abound with historic interest. Turning right at the end of Parade Street there are hints of what is to come as you walk down the drive leading to the gardens, with Chamaerops humilis (Fan Palms), phormiums and spreading clumps of Fascicularia with their dramatic display of foliage and flowers in autumn.

Morrab is not a large garden, only about one and a half hectares, but is packed with plants of interest – many of which are rarely seen anywhere else in Britain. The advantage we have here, which enable us to grow such a range of plants, is all down to our location. On a south-facing slope, only a quarter of a mile from the sea and surrounded by houses which create an urban heat island, there is possibly nowhere on the British mainland with a more favourable microclimate.

The gates at this entrance commemorate the centenary of the Gardens, established in 1889. In the mid-nineteenth century Penzance was becoming a popular destination for visitors and Penzance Borough was actively encouraging this. The town corporation had already constructed the Promenade and the Queens Hotel and, in 1888, bought Morrab House together with surrounding meadow land to set out as a public park. In September of the following year, with much celebration and feasting, Morrab Gardens was opened.

From the outset this was a garden that was renowned for its exotic planting. An early visitor wrote in the Gardeners’ Chronicle: “One of its features is a Palm-grove, where tourists may fancy themselves in the tropics or on Mediterranean shores.”

Throughout its history, Morrab Gardens has thrived with the support of local people and communities. Many of the plants in the Gardens have been donated from other gardens and estates in West Cornwall and Scilly.

This group of hardy hybrid rhododendrons was established about 100 years ago with plants given by Lord St Levan, and has been supplemented by further planting over the years. Many of these hybrids, such as ‘Michael’s Pride’ and ‘Countess of Haddington’ are valued for their fragrance, which fills the air in April and May.

But Morrab has something of interest – including beautifully scented plants – throughout the year. Across the path from this grouping of rhododendrons is a scented camellia – Camellia sasanqua ‘Narumigata’ – which starts flowering here as early as late October or November, and usually continues through the winter.

This gateway was the main entrance to the grounds of Morrab House when it was a private residence, before the public gardens were established here. From here the carriage drive went straight to the house, across what is now shrubbery and lawn.

Stepping out into St Mary’s Terrace, if you look back on the right-hand gatepost you’ll see one of the Penzance Town Trail markers. The Town Trail takes in a number of interesting buildings and historic sites around the town, and was created by Golowan Community Arts. The slate plaques marking the route were designed and carved by Joe Hemming, a local craftsman working in stone, slate and wood.

The view ahead across the main lawn is dominated in summer by a massive clump of Gunnera manicata. Trees ranged around the lawn include Phoenix Palms, Podocarpus totara, Swamp Cypress, Tulip Tree and Cinnamomum camphora, the Cinnamon Tree. An Acer griseum, the Paperbark Maple on the right hand side, is a beautiful tree which really glows when the sun shines on it.

But during spring and early summer the magnolias steal the show, and the selection we grow here ensure a long flowering period. They include Magnolia soulangeana ‘Atropurpurea’ and ‘Rustica Alba’ and Magnolia campbellii. These magnolias have an attractive spreading profile, naturally pruned by the prevailing wind.

The cast iron bandstand was included in the original design for the gardens, but was not built until 1905, with money donated by a local businessman. The bandstand is surrounded by lawns and beds planted up with perennials mostly selected for their value to pollinators, and the paths are flanked by trees, notably a fig tree and a splendid Phoenix Palm.

The area around the bandstand is the venue for many of the community activities held in the gardens over the summer, most notably on Mazey Day, the highlight of the mid-summer Golowan festival. And throughout the year it’s a popular meeting place, a spot where people come at lunchtime, or to bring their children to play. For this is a real sun-trap, sheltered by a dense planting of evergreen oaks which form a backdrop to a Magnolia grandiflora 'Goliath', with agaves and spreading clumps of Tetrapanax papyrifer ‘Rex’, the Chinese Rice Paper plant

Dense planting along the southern boundary of the gardens include Aloysia triphylla – the lemon verbena, which is cultivated in southern Europe and North Africa for the fragrant oil extracted from its leaves.

Other plants along here include Quercus acuta (the Japanese evergreen oak) and Nandina domestica, known as the Chopstick Plant or ‘Heavenly Bamboo’. Its slim canes are used as toothpick and chopstick, though it is not a bamboo at all, but a near relative to the berberis family. Its heavenly powers are thought to dispel bad dreams, so it is often planted near doorways in Japan so that when you wake from a nightmare, you can step outside and tell the shrub your dream so that no harm will follow.

Old photographs of Morrab Gardens often feature the avenue of Cordylines that led from the lower entrance gate. Sadly most of these have been lost over the years though a few individuals remain. Recent replanting means we shall be able to re-create this famous view.

Screening along the boundary of the garden here is provided by an upright form of Field Maple, Copper Beech and a Horse Chestnut which bears vivid red leaves. The other side of the path is lined with mixed planting including a yellow-berried holly, an Acer ‘Kelly’s Gold’, Butia plams and Trachycarpus (fan palms).