SAND, SILT, FLINT - MAGGIE MACHLIN

room 1 ECHOES

Location: Banff, Aberdeenshire, Scotland, United Kingdom

INVERBOYNDIE BEACH - MAGGIE MACHLIN FROM THE ALBUM "SAND SILT, FLINT" BY FIONA SOE PAING https://FionaSoePaing.bandcamp.com The ballad of Maggie Machlin recounts the sad story of a local domestic servant who worked in service for the Manse at Boyndie. According to the song and regional folklore poor Maggie, once favoured by those she worked for, was cast out when she became pregnant by a local dignitary – ‘a Boyndie man of high degree.’ Sadly for Maggie the man of high degree also rejected her and in despair one evening she walked down the water’s edge at Inverboyndie Beach. Here she sat down on a rock and stared out to sea. The ballad tells us that the rock Maggie sat on was bare and covered with spray from the sea. But here Maggie sat from evening until dawn. Sadly, Maggie didn't survive the cold night in this wild, windy spot on the edge of the North Sea and was found dead of exposure the next morning.

Inverboyndie Beach Walk Don’t let the sad tale of Maggie Machlin deter you from a walk along this wild bonnie beach situated west of Banff in Boyndie Bay. The sands and sea at Inverboynie are a popular spot for local walkers, surfers, and swimmers who all gravitate here to take in wide views of the North Sea and surrounding gorse covered cliffs. The car park adjacent to the Banff Links Caravan Park is a favourite place to park and from here it’s a short walk to the beach’s golden sands past a large children’s play park. The voices of playing children meet with the sounds of the sea and wind enroute to the beach and form a poignant echo to Maggie’s sad story. Alternatively, park at the east end of the beach and head down to the coastal pathway that leads through a wide expanse of grassland on the edge of the shoreline. The walk from either end of the beach is filled with the smells of grass and seaweed and lined with picnic tables and jaunty beach shelters with striking blue roofs. The far east side of the beach is the more remote spot to find a bare rock to sit on, stare out to sea and remember poor Maggie. From here the coast path carries onto Banff to the east or, from the other end of the beach, along the coast to Whitehalls – a favourite local dolphin watching spot.

Practical Information The facilities at the Banff Links Caravan Park (open seasonally from the end of March to early January) include a small shop and public toilets. For a sit down meal head west to The Gallery at Whitehalls, a café and fish restaurant on the edge of the marina, or east to Banff which has a number of places to eat and stay. Those travelling on public transport to Inverboyndie can hop aboard one of a number of bus services that run from Banff, Macduff and Fraserburgh.

Soundwalk text researched and written by Lesley Anne Rose at Open Road Ltd, with profound thanks. Image with thanks to Isla Goldie Photography.


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SAND, SILT, FLINT - FISHER'S LULLABY

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SAND, SILT, FLINT - AUCHINDOUN

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AUCHINOUN - FROM THE ALBUM "SAND, SILT, FLINT" BY FIONA SOE PAING https://FionaSoePaing.bandcamp.com Little is known of Auchindoun’s early history. It’s thought to have been built in the 1470s by the architect and master mason Thomas Cochrane, a favourite of King James 111 of Scotland. Further fortification was made in 1509 when the castle is recorded as being owned by Sir James Ogilvy who in this year granted Auchindoun to his nephew, Alexander Oglivy. In 1567 Alexander’s son sold the castle to Sir Adam Gordon, a kinsman of the Earl of Huntly. It’s during his ownership that the history of Auchindoun takes a dark turn and becomes associated with one of the most atrocious acts committed as part of Scotland’s notorious clan feuding. Following victory over his rival John Forbes of Towie at the Battle of Craibstone in 1571, Sir Adam Gordon ordered an attack on Corgarff Castle (see The Lass o’ the Lecht walk), which, at the time, was affiliated with the Mackintosh clan and owned by Forbes. 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On breezy days a keen wind funnels across a landscape of wild heather, home to pheasants, herds of wild deer and active wind turbines. Once inside castle ruins the remains of Auchindoun’s high curtain wall protects visitors from the strongest of winds. The castle is in effect a large tower house that rises across a number of floors, the most impressive of which, even in a ruinous condition, is a great vaulted hall on the first floor. Auchindoun’s rough lichen covered walls hold the memories of winters, summers, feasts and battles and it’s worth taking time to explore the nooks, crannies and remains of old fireplaces on the ground floor – the only floor accessible to the public. Although watch your footing on the uneven ground and look out for fenced off sections. Alongside the romantic ruins, the views of the surrounding Moray countryside are well worth the walk to experience and best taken in through the large, long and empty windows and doors that punctuate the remains of the castle’s curtain wall – watch out for the steep drop on one side. From this vantage point it’s easy to imagine the journey of Willie Mackintosh and his men en route to Aunchindoun to seek revenge for the burning of Corgarff, and the bitter clan rivalry that shaped the history and fabric of both castles. Practical Information Auchindoun Castle is maintained by Historic Environment Scotland. It is open year round and there is no charge for entry. The ruins are located two miles south of Dufftown in Moray off the A941, the main road between Dufftown and Rhynie (postcode: AB55 4DR). Turn onto a signposted farm track off the A941 that leads uphill to a small car park where the walk begins. There are no facilities at the car park. The path to the castle is uphill, rocky in places and wet sometimes. In the winter it can also be icy. Good walking shoes or boots are recommended. The grounds inside the castle walls make for a quiet and sheltered spot for a picnic. The nearest refreshments and public toilets are located in Dufftown. Alternatively, about six miles south of the ruins off the A941 at Lower Cabrach is The Grouse Inn. Part of Speyside Whiskey folklore, the inn is famous for its outstanding whiskey collection with around 235 on optics and in total over 700 to choose from. The Inn’s tearooms are open 10am – 6pm Saturday to Thursday and 1pm – 6pm on Fridays. Text for the Soundwalk researched and written by Lesley-Anne Rose at https://OpenRoadLtd.co.uk , with many thanks. Image with thanks to Isla Goldie Photography
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SAND, SILT, FLINT - THE BALLAD OF JOHN HOSIE

SAND, SILT, FLINT - THE BALLAD OF JOHN HOSIE

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Both sides suffered heavy losses during the day long battle aimed at settling the conflict, but after no conclusive victory on either side, Donald and what remained of his troops, withdrew back to the Isles in the night. John Hosie fought on the side of the Earl of Mar, but the battle fell on the day before he was due to marry his beloved Jean. John survived the bloodshed, but was taken prisoner by Donald’s retreating forces and marched back to the Isles with them, leaving behind the broken hearted Jean. Folklore tells us that it was years before John escaped the Isles and hot foot it back to Aberdeenshire and Bennachie where he pledged his heart to Jean. However, believing John to be dead, Jean is now engaged to another man. The story passed down tells us that the day John returned to Bennachie, Jean and her new fiancé happened to be out walking on the hill. With echoes of Romeo and Juliet, Jean is so shocked and distraught at the sight of the long lost John she drops dead on the spot. Overcome with grief John dies too and is soon buried on the spot where he fell. Legend tells us his tears flowed up from the earth to create Hosie’s well, and still make up its waters to this day. Bennachie Walk The craggy granite peak of the Mither Tap dominates views of Aberdeenshire and is one of nine summits spread out across the ancient landscape of Bennachie. A popular walk with locals and visitors alike, this former hilltop Pictish fort is riddled with walking trails and folklore, and rewards anyone who ventures up its rocky slopes with long horizon views of the surrounding countryside and coast. The easiest way to reach Hosie’s Well is to follow the Maiden Causeway trail, which leads from the Rowan Tree Car Park to the north of Bennachie, to the summit of the Mither Tap, scooting past the well on the way. The trail kicks off to a steep, narrow start as it leads upwards from the car park quicky into woodland of Scots Pine and Sitka Spruce. Take time to look out for the red squirrels that call this forest home and to take in the birdsong that accompanies the short, uphill walk through the trees. From here you’ll soon emerge into a heather strewn hillside and unfolding views of the Mither Tap ahead. After about half an hour of steady walking, and a mile from the car park, you’ll reach a level area, dotted with rowan and larch trees, that branches off to the right of the Maiden Causeway. This diversion leads to Hosie’s Well nestled deep within the rocks beneath the grassy ground. The well itself isn't big, but is a good place to pause, unpack a picnic and take in the silence of the hillside. Also take time to read the information board detailing the story of the blood-stained Battle of Harlow and the tragic Hosie, whose heartbroken tears are said to feed the well’s clear waters. If you’ve the time and energy, and the weather is on your side, continue up the Maiden Causeway to the Mither Tap summit. The Causeway itself is the stuff of legend and named after a feisty local girl who made a deal with the devil, betting she could bake a batch of oatcakes in less time than it would take him to build a pathway up Bennachie. The views from the top of the Mither Tap are equally legendary and well worth the scramble to the top to take in. Practical Information Bennachie is managed by Forestry and Land Scotland (https://forestryandland.gov.scot) It is accessible all year round. There is no charge to part at Rowan Tree car park, but do park in the designated area and be careful not to block gateways. To reach the car park follow the A96 north from Inverurie for about eight miles. Turn left onto a minor road signposted to ‘Maiden Stone’, just before the turning to Oyne. After about 1⁄2 mile, take a right turn signposted ‘Rowantree Forest Walks’. The car park is about 1⁄2 mile along this road, at grid reference NJ 692 244. The nearest post code is: AB51 5HZ. This is a popular walk and the car park gets busy at weekends and holidays. If you are travelling by public transport the nearest drop off point is Pitcaple villiage which is about two miles from the car park on the A96 and served by buses between Huntly and Aberdeen. For more information see Traveline Scotland. (https://travelinescotland.com) The best option to eating is to bring a picnic and picnic tables with a view are perched on a grassy bank above the car park. These are not accessible for wheelchair users, but the on site toilets, which are open Easter to September, are. Good walking shoes or boots are recommended as some parts of the trail are narrow steep and rocky. The ground can also get muddy after rain and icy in the winter. Text for the Soundwalk researched and written by Lesley Anne Rose at https://OpenRoadLtd.co.uk , with many thanks.
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